Even though fashion has experienced quite an exodus in 2015, it was balanced by an equal and opposite promising force of talented newcomers and successors to keep our eyes on.
The school of fashion is quite used to the new kid. Newcomers are greeted with an optimistic curiosity; an excitement to see if they which clique they will fit into. The proverbial lunch table, where new kids find comfort among like-minded friends, is replaced by wardrobes among akin style, curated by people who can wait to expand their circle.
Several talented designers made their debut this year, some familiar faces who have just transferred the reigns to already well-established labels, while other fresh faces introduced themselves for the first time.
Below are a few of the notable newbies to keep your eyes on as they establish their names.
Designers to watch in 2016:
Peter Copping at Oscar de la Renta:
Handpicked by Oscar de la Renta himself, Peter Copping made his debut at the helm of the house for the FW15 collection. With big shoes to fill, the world watched with bated breath as Copping sent his first collection down the runway. And sighed with relief with confidence that the house of Oscar de la Renta is in good hands.
Already well versed in romantic femininity with his 5 year term at Nina Ricci, Copping is the perfect succession to the man who “just wanted to make beautiful clothes.”
Quotable: “We shared a lot of common territory. The sort of woman we appreciate, and going beyond that, gardens, homes, all of that sort of thing: We speak the same language.”
Aesthetic: Romantic and classically feminine
Alessandro Michele at Gucci:
Perhaps one of the most unexpected new creative directors, Alessandro Michele’s debut at Gucci has secured the label’s place back at the forefront of fashionable wish lists. Michele has essentially gone the equivalent of viral, quickly becoming a welcome household name among the fashionably astute.
Michele has quickly achieved the respect of the fashion world, who was initially a bit skeptical about his lack of prestige.
Quotable: “I love the idea that a dress has a memory.”
Aesthetic: Vintage Romance
Demna Gvasalia at Vetements & Belenciaga:
With the end of one chapter comes the beginning of another. Alexander Wang resigned from Balenciaga, passing the reigns to the buzzy Louis Vuitton/Margiela alum Demna Gvasalia. His fledgeling line, Vetements, characterized by deconstructed and spontaneous aesthetic, has rapidly become a fashion table topic.
Aesthetic: Deconstructed sophistication
Peter Dundas at Roberto Cavalli:
Dundas parted ways with Emilio Pucci and found his way back to the italian house that launched his career. The House of Roberto Cavalli appointed Dundas as the first successor to Mr. Cavalli himself. Dundas was tasked with the expectation to breathe a new life into a brand that has been burdened with the jaded response to a repetitive theme, while still maintaining the core Cavalli identity. His first presentation for Spring ’16 employed the 80s motifs.
Aesthetic: Rocker chic
Josep Font at Delpozo:
After the death of Jesus del Pozo, the brand relaunched with designer Josep Font as the helm. Since his debut, the label has done nothing but gain momentum. The brand, born and bred in Madrid, had become iconic of Spanish fashion from its conception. Under Font, the house has found a global influence. The whimsical designs and architectural silhouettes are the stuff of fashion fantasy, propelling Delpozo to the forefront of wardrobe dreams.
Aesthetic: Ethereal whimsy and dreamlike glamour
Sybilla is actually an old new kid on the block. After a 10 year hiatus, the 80s era veteran is posed for a comeback. Sybilla made her mark over 30 years ago with illusional pieces, fabric molded into maze-like shapes and silhouettes. She has already stirred up plenty of anticipation, hosting pop up shops in New York, Mallorca and Barcelona.
Quotable: “I want to give them confidence and strength, a feel of natural beauty, of effortless ease. Clothes must be worn with love, emotion, and pride.”
Aesthetic: Refined whimsy
Stylist turned first-time designer, Brandon Maxwell, proved the versatility of his fashion acumen with his debut runway show for Spring/Summer ’16. With an already established clientele from his celebrity styling career, featuring the likes of Lady Gaga, his front row was very well-populated with A-list names.
Aesthetic: Elegant sophistication
Han Chong has quickly gained a cult-like following with his rapidly growing label Self Portrait. Championing lace, mesh and ultra-feminine silhouettes. the brand has quickly become a red carpet staple. Chong staged his first fashion week presentation for the Spring/summer 16 line.
This design due found their strengths and then each other under stints at Oscar de la Renta. Their debut runway presentation honored that influence, conceptualizing a lifestyle valuing approachable and relaxed glamour. The pieces were meticulous while still maintaining a degree of simplicity.
Quotable: “We’re inspired by real girls today who wear jeans, flats. They want something easy.”
Aesthetic: Elegant simplicity
Arbesser presented his first seasonal runway show this year after surmounting buzz over his first two collection presentations. His Milan runway debut articulated an adolescent narrative, with flirty silhouettes and playful prints.
Taking inspiration from the astronomer, this new innovative label values futuristic motifs, favoring designs with clean shapes and geometric lines. The design due has found a balance between futuristic and practical, resulting in unique yet wearable pieces.
The family owned knitwear brand launched their menswear line for Spring 2014 and has recently delved into the womenswear world. Given the limited fabric choice, one would imagine a bit of a narrow spectrum of offerings. However the Orley’s have managed to create a diverse line punctuated by dramatizing texture and manipulating shapes and molding silhouettes, giving each piece its own voice.
Another design duo that has made their runway debut this year. Already popular in Asia, the transcontinental design duo is vying for a spot in American closets.
Quotable: “We want to make clothing [girls] want, not clothing we want them to wear.”
Quotes and Photos via : Voguerunway.com